Dryburgh Abbey
In an idyllic setting of landscaped parklands, the richly coloured ruins
of Dryburgh Abbey nestle peacefully beside the River Tweed in a spot
almost as secluded today as it was 900 years ago. Founded in 1150 and
colonised with a group of canons from Alnwick, this Premonstratensian
house was the first and most important abbey in Scotland. It is also
the only foundation of that order to have survived to any substantial
degree, which is nothing short of a miracle considering its turbulent
past.
Throughout the 14th, 15th, and even the 16th centuries, Dryburgh Abbey
suffered terribly at the hands of the English. It was very nearly destroyed
by fire on at least two occasions, and sustained extensive damage from
attacks at various times. By the end of the 14th century the
abbey church had to be virtually rebuilt, and substantial repairs made
to some of the domestic buildings. Despite these periods of unrest, the
canons still seemed to get through their daily round of prayer, reading, writing
and contemplation for the next world. Monastic life at Dryburgh Abbey
came to end at The Reformation in 1560.
Little survives of the abbey church, but what remains standing is an excellent example of Early English architecture
in its purest form. The North Transept, containing vaulted chapels,
is particularly well preserved and still proudly displays the clerestory
with beautiful clustered shafts supporting a row of lancet windows.
A closer inspection of the magnificent carved detail shows it to be
unbelievably clear and sharp. After The Reformation, the two chapels
in the north transept of the abbey church became the burial chambers
for members of the local nobility, and it is for this reason that they
have remained in such good order. Lying in this hallowed environment
are Sir Walter Scott and Field-Marshal Earl Haig, both very closely
connected with Dryburgh Abbey.
The claustral buildings along the east range are reputed to be the finest in Scotland, and the Chapter
House is particularly splendid. A really grand entrance leads down to
a huge vaulted chamber, that would once have been colourfully painted,
and decorated with elaborately carved arcading where senior members of
the abbey sat. Examples of the geometric paintwork are still visible on
some sections of the wall, and the stone arcading has survived along the
east wall. Across the site are other fragmentary remains and foundations
of domestic buildings, including the west wall and rose window of the
refectory, and evidence of the 16th century gatehouse.
Marking the significance of this foundation is a carved obelisk dedicated to Hugh de Moreville
that was erected by the 11th Earl of Buchan in the late 18th
century. In turn, we have the Earl to thank for his foresight in preserving
the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey. Without his dedicated efforts over a period
of some 40 years, there may have been even less to remind us of the lovely
pink sandstone monument that the Premonstratensians lovingly created.
Walking through these lush, wooded parklands is a truly pleasurable and
calming experience and it is not difficult to understand why the canons
chose it as their refuge. |