 Tintern Abbey
The 12th century monastery was the first Cistercian house to be founded
in Wales - the second in the British Isles, after Waverley Abbey in Surrey.
From a modest foundation in 1131, Tintern Abbey was considerably remodelled
and expanded during the next three hundred years, and it is the vast
remains of this grand, Gothic church that survive today.
Externally, the church looks
remarkably complete, with the exception of a roof, and dominates this
site which consists of little more than ground level foundations marking
out the other buildings of the monastic complex. Although not as long
as some of the great Yorkshire abbeys, the Nave at Tintern Abbey runs to an
impressive 228ft (69m) with the majority of Nave columns, and a complete southern
arcade still in existence.
These imposing, multi-clustered
piers, supporting beautifully moulded arches, give a feeling of enormous
strength and height to the body of the church. Much of the decorative
work has also survived: there are sumptuous carvings, elaborate
mouldings, richly detailed roof bosses, and superb examples of traceried
windows throughout the church. With its 'open' aspect today, devoid of roof, windows and a neatly tiled
floor, Tintern Abbey presents an evocative picture, especially with
sunlight filtering through the wide arches and casting shadows from
the massive sandstone columns. However, in medieval times, it
would have been equally spectacular with its stained glass windows
creating rainbow reflections on the red clay floor tiles, and light radiating
from the brightly painted walls and ceilings.
As far as the claustral buildings
go, there are only fragmented remains of the once splendid and important
Chapter House, part of the Sacristy survives, along with its vaulted
ceiling, and a book store with its original 14th century highly decorated
doorway. In the north east corner of the cloister stand the ruinous
walls of the monks' day room, and evidence of the corbels and octagonal
piers that would once have supported a vaulted roof. One section
of the refectory wall has survived to show two pairs of the large,
four-light windows with plate tracery that would have enabled a good deal of light
to shine into this splendid room.
Tintern Abbey did not appear to
suffer unduly from the ravages of war although, in common with most of
the medieval monasteries, financial difficulties were experienced at
times. However, its fate was decided with the Dissolution, and in 1536 it was
surrendered to the King. For some 200 years the monastery was left
to decay, and became forgotten in this remote stretch of the Wye Valley. Surprisingly,
it was with the advent of a 'tourist' trade in the late Georgian era
that Tintern Abbey was rediscovered, and subsequently restored
as a 'romantic attraction'. A structured conservation programme was determined in 1901 when the abbey
was purchased by the Crown, and from then on the continual maintenance
and restoration of the site has been undertaken by various bodies.
In common with so many visitors
before me (including the celebrated William Wordsworth and J M W Turner),
when I think of Tintern Abbey I think of the beauty and tranquility it still
possesses. It is simply a magical place. |
