At no distance from the M25, and on the edge of Epping Forest, stands all that is left of the beautiful abbey church at Waltham. When Harold Godwinson (then Earl of Wessex) was given the estate by his brother-in-law, Edward the Confessor, he founded a college there for secular cannons. On the site of an earlier church, Harold built his T-shaped Norman church, with a tiny apse at the centre of the east end. Magnificent Caen stone was specially transported from France, and by the time Harold had become the new King of England his Minster (church) was gaining a reputation for the working of miracles. According to legend, Harold was cured of paralysis by the Holy Cross of Waltham, and this was given a place of honour in his fine church.

A century later saw the church being trebled in size by Henry II, who established an Augustinian priory on the site, and this became one of the wealthiest houses of that Order. In 1184 the priory was raised to abbey status, and by the end of the 13th century the Norman fabric of Harold's church had been transformed by the elegant 'Decorated' architecture of that period. Completing the building programme of the abbey church, the south aisle of the nave was extended at the east end to include a gothic Lady Chapel.

Waltham Abbey was often visited by Henry VIII and, at one time, plans were discussed to make it a cathedral. This didn't happen and, after the Dissolution of the monastery in 1540, orders were given to destroy the church. The entire east section of the monastic church was demolished but the nave and the 14th century Lady Chapel were spared for parish worship. When the crossing tower collapsed in 1552, a new tower was erected at the west end using the stone from the original Norman tower. The compact parish church was given a sympathetic Victorian restoration, including a new altar and reredos, and has been well maintained since that time.

Inside the abbey church today, the nave is an imposing sight with its massive cylindrical Norman pillars supporting the triforium and clerestory, and a beautifully painted ceiling. At the east end the Victorian reredos sits beneath a 'rose petal' stained glass window, creating a splendid focal point and spreading a golden light throughout the church.

One thousand years ago there was little more than a hunting lodge located here in a clearing of the great Waltham Forest - a very different scene to that of the present day conurbation. And what became of the Holy Cross that attracted so many pilgrims during the Middle Ages in search of their miraculous cures? That, it seems, remains a mystery. But Harold is still remembered with an external statue at the south-west corner of the church, and a stone that marks the site of his grave (formerly inside the church). Despite its proximity to the bustle of 21st century life, Waltham Abbey manages to retain an atmospheric calm within its boundary.