Possibly one of the most striking landmarks in Glamorgan, Castell Coch emerges from its veil of greenery like a 3D image from a pop-up book of fairy tales. Elevated on a natural limestone ledge, the castle's round red-brick towers topped by their silvery grey conical roofs appear as alien to the surrounding urbanisation of Wales as a coal mine might be in the forest scene of Hansel and Gretel. So what lies behind the creation of this exotic Victorian folly?
Around the time of the Norman Conquest, a much earlier earth-and-timber fortification had existed on the site. When Glamorgan came under the rule of the powerful Clare family in the early years of the 13th century, Castell Coch was reinforced and rebuilt in stone. This medieval fortress survived for less than a century, being destroyed beyond repair at the time of the Welsh rebellion in Glamorgan. For the next 560 years the ruins crumbled, materials were quarried away, and nature gradually reclaimed the area.
New life was breathed into the fragmented remains, now virtually disappeared beneath vigorous undergrowth, when the third Marquis of Bute decided to re-erect a castle on the old site. Having already established a firm relationship with the architect William Burges, through a mutual adoration for medieval architecture and all things of antiquity, Lord Bute had commissioned him in 1868 to begin the transformation of Cardiff Castle. Through his inheritance, and subsequently his marriage, the Marquis was claimed to be the wealthiest aristocrat in Britain so when Burges was approached to undertake the huge project at Castell Coch he was confident that his imagination would not be restricted by finances. Plans were drawn up taking into consideration the details of the original medieval castle but ensuring that the practicalities and modern conveniences of the 19th century were incorporated in the new structure.
In 1875 construction of the Victorian gothic red castle (Castell Coch) was begun. The irregular layout consisted of a central courtyard, roughly circular in shape, around which three drum towers were positioned. Between the two southern towers (the Kitchen Tower and the Keep Tower) was a large rectangular two-storey hall block. By 1879 the shell of the new castle had been completed, and fitting out the interiors was just beginning when Burges died suddenly in the spring of 1881. It took a further 10 years for a team of dedicated craftsmen to carry out Burges' detailed plans for each room in the castle.
Despite the fact that Castell Coch was never used as a permanent residence, no expense was spared on the lavish decorations or the exquisite furnishings. Romanticised, gothicised, and with hints of Oriental and Moorish architecture, the castle was a fantastical vision built to satisfy a rich man's indulgence. Ironically, it was used by the military during World War II but soon afterwards the fifth Marquis of Bute placed Castell Coch under the protection of the Government body responsible for conservation. Today's visitors are still enthralled by the rich splendour and craftsmanship. It is a shame that William Burges did not survive long enough to see his ambitious plans come together in this magnificent creation.

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