Lanercost Priory, Cumbria

In a quiet rural area of Cumbria, running alongside Hadrians Wall, this impressive old church looms into view amid the isolated farms and cottages. From a distance it appears to be nothing more than an unusually large parish church, but a closer look will give the clues to its origin. Lancercost Priory was founded by Robert de Vaux in 1166 and, with an extremely generous endowment, the Augustinian Canons were able to start building their monastery on a grand scale.

Being in such close proximity to the Scottish Borders life at Lanercost Priory was less than peaceful, and the priory's history was indeed a turbulent one. Following a visit by Edward I and Queen Eleanor in 1280, Lanercost Priory suffered its first raid, and just 16 years later a more damaging attack resulted in the cloister being burned out. Having barely completed the repairs from these attacks, parts of Lanercost Priory were destroyed yet again in 1297 by William Wallace.

The most devastating raid came in 1346 when King David II of Scotland ransacked the monastic buildings, desecrated the priory church, and wasted lands belonging to the monastery. But with every Royal visit, and after every damaging raid, the resilient community of canons continued to extend and re-build Lanercost Priory, causing their considerable wealth to dwindle completely before the end of the 15th century.

At the Dissolution in 1536 the site was granted to Sir Thomas Dacre who converted the west range buildings into a private residence that was occupied by the family until 1716. Meanwhile, the north aisle of the priory church was in use as the parish church, but all other monastic buildings had been reduced to rubble and the materials quarried away for local building. Despite such a chequered history, it is remarkable to see this beautiful church, part ruin, part restored, still standing and still in use today as the parish church. From the original crossing tower to the east end the church remains roofless but almost complete in every detail. The present church, formerly the nave of the early 13th century priory church, displays some magnificent Early English style architecture but there are still examples of the more sturdy Norman features remaining from the first building of the church.

Nothing but foundations can be seen of the claustral buildings in the east range, but a splendid vaulted undercroft has survived in the south range at Lancercost Priory. This would probably have been the cellarium beneath the canons dining hall, but now contains several examples of medieval carving from the site, as well as some interesting Roman altars found along Hadrian's Wall. More of the west range and the prior's house remain standing, although considerably transformed during the time of the Dacres' occupation and containing many features from the 16th century. The only other true monastic survival is the ruined arch of the gatehouse through which visitors enter the site.

Lanercost Priory is a fascinating place with a well-documented history and there is plenty to explore, both as a medieval ruin and as a present day church. The absolute tranquillity of the site is disturbed only by various breeds of livestock in bordering fields, and some grazing cattle that are allowed to roam freely around the car park. But all potential visitors beware - these cows have apparently acquired the taste for vehicle wing mirrors, as a public notice warns!