Wenlock Priory, Much Wenlock, Shropshire
Tucked neatly out of sight, along a winding lane behind the little bustling
town of Much Wenlock in Shropshire, lie the few remaining walls of the once glorious Wenlock Priory.
This has been a religious site for over 1300 years, with the first
nunnery being founded for St Milburga, daughter of Merewald the King
of Mercia. However, it wasn't until after the Norman Conquest
that a small group of monks arrived in Much Wenlock to form the basis
of the Cluniac Priory.
All that survives today of the 350ft (106m) long, 13th century church is one
wall of the north transept, a substantial section of the south transept,
and the huge nave column bases. To imagine how grand and decorative Wenlock Priory church would have been, a closer investigation of the remains of
the Norman Chapter House will confirm the elaborate and intricate work
typical of Cluniac houses.
Along the north and south
walls of the ruined Chapter House runs a continuous length of interlaced,
blind arcading with richly carved capitals and embellished mouldings.
In a corner of the cloister, opposite the fragmented walls of the
monks' dining hall, there stands a superb example of a 12th century
lavatorium. Originally enclosed in an octagonal building, only two
of the lavishly sculptured panels on this Norman washbasin have survived
sufficiently to determine the detail. These would once have been
faced with Wenlock marble - a local limestone that could be polished
to produce a gloss finish. Unfortunately, the beautiful, late 15th century
Prior's house, although remaining in tact is privately
owned and occupied and therefore not publicly accessible.
Wenlock Priory is a wonderfully quiet and calming place where it is easy, on a sunny
day, to spend an hour or two sitting peacefully in the well-tended grounds.
Having a keen interest in wild flowers makes this site even more special
for me as, during our last visit in the Spring, I identified a
dozen or more varieties sprouting beneath and between the crumbling foundation
stones. Our only personal misgiving about this entirely delightful setting is the peculiar
array of topiary that appears in the cloister. An unusual and puzzling
bedfellow, in our opinion, to compliment the monastic ingenuity and craftsmanship
employed in the modelling of the elaborate washing facilities here!
The quaint and pretty town of Much Wenlock, which sprang up around the ancient priory,
is also a place that has retained much historical interest. Along its
narrow streets are many fine, old buildings including a magnificent
16th century black and white Guildhall and a lovely Norman church. A short
distance along the lane, leading to Wenlock Priory, stands a remaining tower
of the medieval gatehouse. Exploring the streets and shops on foot make
for an extremely pleasant way to spend a couple of hours, but driving
through the town proved to be a more difficult task. |