 Traquair House
Acclaimed as the oldest inhabited house in Scotland, Traquair House makes a hauntingly
beautiful picture, buried deep in a thickly wooded valley beside the
River Tweed. Roughly translated, 'Traquair' means a dwelling on a winding
stream, and this appears to have been the case for at least one thousand
years. Prior to the 12th century, the history of this imposing
property is a little hazy but it has been suggested that around AD950
it was known as a heather hut in the great surrounding forest. Certainly
by 1107 it had become a Royal hunting lodge, a fortified property then
called Traquair Castle, and was frequented by many Scottish kings. For
over 300 years the castle's ownership was in a state of turmoil until,
finally, in 1491 the three-storey tower was bestowed upon the first
Laird of Traquair, James Stuart. Descendants of the same family continue
to occupy this fascinating house, surrounded by mementos of past events
and controversial associations.
Gradually transformed and
developed into a large country mansion, Traquair House's original tower and
attic were incorporated into the new 17th century building,
and it has changed little since that time. Internally,
the rooms have been rearranged and redecorated as fashions dictated,
and Traquair House is now a tantalising combination of styles spanning nine
centuries. On the first floor of the 12th century tower are
the King's Room and the Dressing Room, displayed to represent two very
different periods. The state bed is a lasting memorial of the time that
Mary Queen of Scots stayed at Traquair House in 1566, together with her husband
Lord Darnley and their son. Just a baby at that time, the future King
James of Scotland and England slept peacefully in the beautifully carved
oak cradle at the foot of the four-poster. Next door, the little dressing
room has been given an early Victorian look, to show the less convenient
preparations involved at bath time. Above these rooms, at the top of
the old tower, is a museum room exhibiting assorted family memorabilia
and a rare section of early 16th century mural decoration.
Following a long, unsettled
period for many Scottish families, Traquair House's final act of defiance against
the English throne came about one evening in 1745. Bonnie Prince Charlie, had
been a guest of the 5th Earl of Traquair and, with his departure
through the great 'Bear Gates' at the end of Royal Avenue, the gates were
closed for the final time, the Earl promising that they would not be opened
again until the Stuarts were restored to the throne.
Exploring the estate at Traquair
is essential to the total experience, and the best way to cover all areas
is by taking the woodland walk in the first instance to capture the beauty
of its rugged riverside location. Working inwards to discover the maze,
the terraces and formal gardens, will eventually lead back to the old
brew house. Situated beneath one of wings of the chapel, the large 18th
century copper and mash tun are still used today to produce traditional
rich and malty ales. A wonderfully intoxicating aroma seeps into the chapel
on 'brewing days', but this is no substitute for experiencing the taste
of these really smooth and deliciously dark beers. For the visitor wishing
to enjoy a more 'sober' day at Traquair House, there is a quaint cottage tearoom
in the old walled garden.
Romantic, evocative, and
tranquil are all adjectives that perfectly describe Traquair House as seen today,
but its history of traumas, tragedy, poverty and eccentricities are so
vividly brought to life in this ancient residence. |
