 Calke Abbey
Described by the National Trust as a "memorial to the many English country
houses that disappeared during the 20th century",
Calke Abbey certainly reflects a past glory that has since become
hidden beneath years of neglect. Here is yet another example of a former 12th
century priory being completely transformed, initially into an Elizabethan
courtyard house, then updated to a grand baroque mansion, and finally
given the popular, late 18th century neo-classical look.
From the mid 1500s, the Harpur family had become firmly entrenched in Derbyshire, owning many estates
in the county, and in 1622 Calke Abbey came into their possession. Little is
known of the first owner, Sir Henry Harpur, except that he was a Sheriff
of Derbyshire in 1625, and the following year he bought a baronetcy in
order to establish his place among the aristocracy. The fourth baronet,
Sir John Harpur, married well, and it was he that changed the modest Elizabethan
house into a magnificent mansion, furnishing it in a manner appropriate
to his status. However, when the seventh baronet, a shy withdrawn character,
inherited the property, it was to take on the indelible stamp of eccentricity
that is still apparent today.
Never one for getting involved in the endless round of social events, he preferred to put his time and
energies into improving his home. It was his idea to add the temple-like
portico to the front façade, and to rename the ancestral seat 'Calke
Abbey'. Already thought of as slightly strange because of the amount
of time he enjoyed spending alone, and taking an unusual interest in wild animals,
he then committed the unthinkable deed of marrying below his class.
Similar odd characteristics materialised in some of his successors, to varying
degrees, but most notably in the 10th baronet, Sir Vauncey
Harpur Crewe. His behaviour was said to be unpredictable and extreme on
occasions, and he became obsessed with collecting stuffed birds and animals,
his collection numbering several thousand by the time he died.
Walking through Calke Abbey is like entering Aladdin's Cave, and gradually more and more surprises
begin to reveal themselves. Only a few of the rooms have been preserved
in good decorative order, and these are absolutely brimming with taxidermy,
hunting trophies, collections of shells, paintings and numerous other
objects. Although most of the other rooms in the house are open to visitors,
they have been left untouched, and have obviously been utilised as storage
facilities for all the weird and wonderful artefacts collected by various
Harpurs over the years. It is quite unnerving to see all these treasured
family possessions heaped up and crammed into old rooms, and closely resembles
a 'bring and buy sale' but on a grand scale. The most wonderful and unexpected
discovery of Calke Abbey is a mint condition, State Bed, which apparently
was never unpacked. Now protected in a glass display cabinet, this early
18th century bed is bedecked with heavily embroidered, Chinese
silk hangings which are fabulously rich in colour and texture.
With so many stories of solitude and seclusion surrounding the late Harpurs, it is uncanny that these were
probably the most important considerations when the early monks first
chose Calke Abbey as their home. |
