Hardwick Hall

Essentially two massive old country mansions, one now sadly ruinous, that stand as magnificent Elizabethan memorials to the astute and notorious 'Bess of Hardwick'. The Hardwick family had owned and farmed the land since the 13th century, and Elizabeth was born in 1527 in the medieval manor house that once occupied the site. Her father died before she had reached her first Birthday and, despite her mother re-marrying, there was little family money. In an attempt to alleviate financial difficulties, Bess had married her cousin by the age of 13, but this solved little as her young husband died just a year later, a minor with no estate for Bess to inherit.

As a gentlewoman, serving in the house of Lady Jane Grey's mother, Bess met and married her one great love, the elderly and extremely rich government servant, Sir William Cavendish. It was this marriage that paved the way for Bess' giant leap up the social ladder, and gave her heirs to two of the most influential dukedoms of the time. Having bought numerous properties to please Bess in the early days of their marriage, including Chatsworth, Cavendish had provided the line of descent to the present day with the Dukes of Devonshire at Chatsworth, and with the Dukes of Newcastle and Portland. Within 10 years Sir William died, leaving Bess a wealthy widow, but being a determined and ambitious woman, she married into the aristocracy once again just two years later.

By 1567, having accumulated much of the property of her late third husband, Bess made a final and financially powerful marriage. It proved to be a sensational union in that it provided the means for the 6th Earl of Shrewsbury to become the biggest tycoon in England and, on his death, Bess became one of the richest ladies in England. Having to contend with the custodial duties of Mary, Queen of Scots for 15 years, and being unaware of what his wife was up to socially, politically and financially, inevitably caused Lord Shrewsbury a great deal of stress. The marriage collapsed in 1584, Bess bought back the Hardwick estate from her brother, and a new phase of her life began.

For the next six years Bess went about restoring the Old Hall at Hardwick, but when her husband died in 1590 she decided to build a much grander mansion that would demonstrate to the world her undisputed status. Overtly proud of the fact that she had acquired the 'Shrewsbury' title, Bess adorned the new Hardwick Hall, almost symbolically, with her initials 'ES'. The new Hardwick Hall, probably designed by Robert Smythson, is a masterpiece of symmetry and detail, featuring a stunning glass façade that extends to four storeys. Internally there is prolific plasterwork, the most amazing piece being a thrown plaster frieze, beautifully painted, which survives in the high great chamber. The walls are dripping with old tapestries and fine embroidery, and much of the décor and furnishings were brought in from Chatsworth House during the 1800s.

Possibly it is for this reason that Hardwick Hall is mistakenly associated with Mary, Queen of Scots' captivity. Although it is reasonable to assume that she was never actually held at Hardwick Hall by Lord Shrewsbury, an assortment of items now housed here would have been familiar to Mary during her stay at Chatsworth.